POKHARA, NEPAL · OCTOBER 2025

LOCATIONS · LEAD

Above Phewa Lake — the road in the clouds, and the country waiting at the top.

A road most maps don't agree on the existence of. A view that pays you back in silence. A first-morning country built for people who don't mind a hard drive up.

By Alex · Locations · Today

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— Friday · May 15, 2026 —

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TRIPS

A note on the first morning at Phewa Lake.

When to arrive, when to leave, where to look. The five-minute orientation for members heading to Pokhara this winter.

By Alex · Trips · This week

FOOD

The terrace at Yeti Bakery — and what to order before the day gets warm.

A member's secret table, a coffee that costs ninety cents, and a view that takes the rest of the morning to put away.

By Alex · Food · This week

LOCATIONS

Ayutthaya in the off-month, when the temples are quiet again.

January, mid-week, with the right shoes — the list of which temples to skip, and which one is worth the early morning.

By A member · Locations · 6 days ago

CHALLENGES

A monthly challenge: name a road no map quite agrees on.

Eight members have filed routes this month. Editors pick one each season and the road becomes part of the archive.

Editors · Challenges · This month

TRIPS

What members are doing right now.

On the trail above the village — and the question of who showed it to you.

Eight kilometres of nothing on the map, two members with conflicting directions, a kitchen at the top that doesn't have a sign.

By Alex · Trips · Last week

PLANNING · TRIPS

A short brief on the river towns of upper Egypt.

October, going against the season. What to read first.

Editors · Trips · 4 days ago

REVIEW · TRIPS

Off-season Thailand — the road north after the rain.

Three members file the same warning about May.

Members · Trips · This week

FOOD

From the table.

A grilled plate, eight dollars, three nights running.

A corner kitchen no one photographs. A member's tip that paid off. The pepper she puts on at the end is the part to remember.

A member · Food · This week

FEATURE · FOOD

A reading on the coffee scene in Tbilisi, this season.

Who roasts what. Where the queues are. Why the third-wave wave is finally here, and why the old places are still better.

Editors · Food · 5 days ago

PRACTICE · FOOD

Foraging notes — what's safe, what's edible, what's worth the bother.

A short field guide written by a member who has done the wrong thing more than once.

A member · Food · This month

WORK & FINANCE

Inside the business of being on the road.

What the lira buys this season — a member's reckoning.

Reference prices across food, transit, and a decent room. The drift since spring. What the next quarter probably looks like.

A member · Finance · This week

WORK · CONTRIBUTORS

A short note on contributor pay, the editorial calendar, and what to pitch.

Three things the editorial board wants more of this season — and one thing it has enough of already.

Editors · Work · 3 days ago

FINANCE · ARCHIVE

The Archive, this month — 17 cities re-priced by members.

Bangkok, Tbilisi, and Mexico City lead the drift; Kotor moves the other way. The full table opens in the Journal App.

Editors · Finance · This week

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The Archive — 255 cities of cost data

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